Nothing like paddling out early at your favourite break where you know the waves will crank in like clockwork.
Surfing Wattegos wearing a bikini, boardies and sunblock and is my Sunday break of choice but living a couple of thousand km south means it’s the full monty; still unable to acclimatize after four years from my seven year Sydney surf sojourn, my new-ish 3/2 steamer remains the summer rubber suit of choice at Torquay Point.
This morning when I pulled in it was pretty small but still a dozen cars covered in surf stickers bearing the names of various wave-riding clubs and local niche shapers bore testimony to the salt water addition.
“It’s tiny but we’re desperate so we’re paddling out,” said a local with a grin.
Mals and longboards were go apart from an enthusiastic fish and a stand-up adding interest to the mix and causing several boardriders to wonder aloud about the current state of their ambulance cover.
But at the end of the day it was party waves a-plenty.
Storms are predicted for this evening so hopefully better surf is on the way…
Image shows surfychic preparng to paddle out at Wattegoes.