Surf Tribes

Down here in Torquay the Rip Curl Pro is on at Bells and town is full of all kinds of surfers from all over the globe. The water temperature’s dropping like the economy;- if you’re not thinking about wearing a wetsuit, then you don’t own one. To those poor souls who've never ridden a wave, we rubber-clad surfers may all appear alike, but the waves are home to a surprising diversity of tribes. Here's a short guide on the different surfing clans and how to identify us...

Soul surfers
Come from every walk of life and surf every kind of board. No longer driving only clapped-out VW vans, they’re as likely to drive a sand-filled station wagon as the latest Audi or 4WD. While spotted at chilled out Wattegos to the most insane that Bells or Narrabeen can pump out, they generally prefer the less crowded breaks. Choosing careers in a trade or running their own consultancy to achieve maximum water-time, they are still after every wave they can ride! Like the core surfer, they’re uninterested in surf company hype, highly skeptical of advertising gimmicks and unimpressed by surf rage or “label lemmings”. Committed to getting their kids involved in surfing and the environment, they plan to retire to a beach community that offers good waves – see Silver Surfer.

Soul sista
Spotted everywhere from Jan Juc to Noosa via Yallingups, the female soul surfer is a class act. Doesn’t care what anyone else thinks, she’s secure and confident enough to be the only woman paddling out the back at dawn with the local guys – but she’s not taking any shit either. Fit, positive, with a healthy sense of humour, she’s not taken in by surf advertising hype. Confident with her own style which comprises a chic blend of surf labels, quality fashion and gear she’s had forever. While amused by hyped-up surfychicks, she doesn’t look down on them as she remembers her own grommet years and is happy to encourage the younger girls. If she’s a career woman, then she chooses a job that won’t own her and if a parent does everything she can to encourage her partner and kids into the water – after all, better they all be surfing together than having to run them to netball or footy just when the waves are really kicking in.

Surfychick
The young female grommet lives, breathes and talks surfing – and she’s got all the gear to prove it. While a lot more fashion savvy than the “label lemming” or grommet, the surfychick loves to wear surf gear top to toe and if she’s in school uniform, will still carry the Roxy backpack and sport a tide watch. Unlike her older soul or core sistas, she’s never been exposed to the old ‘boys on the boards / chicks on the beach’ paradigm and as a consequence, is a confident wave-rider as her male counterparts. Fit, sassy and determined to surf well, she’s often started out in nippers before progressing to the local boardriders club where she sees the guys her surfing mates as much as her galpals. Habitat – check your local beach.

Grommet
Young, energetic, cheeky and totally wave-obsessed, the grommet dream is to surf professionally. This period of a surfer’s life is critical in determining their eventual growth to weekend warrior, soul, core or angry. Easily identified at any beach I nthe country as the kid peddling to the beach for a surf check on a winter’s dawn clad in flannelette skull and cross bone PJ’s, slippers, polar-fleece jumper and beanie, only water so flat you could water-ski or circling sharks will deter – and sometimes not even then. The lifeblood of boardriding clubs up and down the coast, they consume huge amounts of junk food and remain rail thin, until they hit 15, when suddenly that cute kid you always beat for a wave, suddenly morphs in to a deep voiced, kick-arse surfer. While stirred by older brethren, groms are much envied for their uncomplicated approach – see wave, surf wave – and should be encouraged to develop into core or soul.

Red Neck surfer
Unimaginative, boorish and aggressive, these guys (it’s a 99.9% male virus) generally ride a shortboard and are both immature and insecure. This arrogant and ignorant boor is so convinced of his tribes’ superiority, he’s unable to visualize surfing anything else. A real (but denied) fear of standing out from the crowd sees him attack verbally and occasionally physically, anyone he sees as not conforming. He relies heavily on his peers who ride the same boards, listen to same music and wear the same surf clothing labels. Think ‘Life of Brian’s’ ‘we’re all individuals’. While the majority thankfully grows out of this to become somewhat human and embrace the wonderful diversity surfing offers, there are still a few demented tragics who persevere with this pitiful red neck attitude. Unaware that they are simultaneously pitied and despised by other surfers, they curiously resist extinction. Locale – unfortunately, many beaches have this dinosaur.

Core
Wintry solid 8ft a-frames at Winki or 11 degree and junky on-shore 2 ft lumps at Avalon, the core surfer will be out there getting their daily wave fix as long as there’s swell. The boards they surf are no indicator of ability or talent; they can be found riding everything from epoxy shortboards to retro single fins, swallow-tailed fish to 60s longboards, George Greenough inspired kneeboards, standups, mals or waveskis. Unimpressed by advertising, the core surfer has been around long enough to know that the latest board shorts won’t improve their surfing – besides, they’d rather save up for a new custom board from a local shaper who really knows their surfing style and local conditions. Contemptuous of the red neck surfer, the core regards them as blight on the ocean and wishes they’d go away and take up lawn bowls or something.

Weekend warrior
A core whose work, family or study commitments mean that unless it’s daylight saving, they can’t get out during the week, so they make up for it on weekends. Often a middle or senior exec, the weekend warrior has often been known to arrange for the company sales conference to be held at Torquay or Terrigal, rather than Canberra or Castlemaine, so that they can sneak out in the mornings for a few waves. The limited time they have available means they encourage their kids and partner to get involved and always, always, always will holiday by the beach.

Label lemming
Found at every beach. The surf company’s cash cow, this dream customer just has to have the latest wetsuit / boardshorts / surfboard and they want it now and amazingly (unless they live in the surf capital of Torquay and have access to all the discount shops) will pay full retail price. As soon as they see their idol accepting a trophy or in a magazine advertisement, they simply have to have the same t-shirt / shoe / fin / sunglasses / board - and they feel left out if all their mates have the cool new surf watch while are still wearing last years model. A pack animal, LL’s can be a great surfer, albeit one with a misguided consumption habit. While the global fincial crisis has put the handbrake on their shopping addiction, they are still out there spending up, while the savvy wait a few weeks fo them to appear for 1 per cent of the original price at the local op shop. Often a short but critical stage between Grommet and Core, most will move onto when puberty is over and common sense kicks in or when their parents stop footing the bill.

Competitive surfer
These boardriders are more motivated than a grommet! Immersed in surfing 24/7, they are constantly thinking about winning, which in turn will help then get a sponsor or keep their current supporters happy. Every weekend is spent attending competitions up and down the coast, every spare moment is spent in the ocean or cross-training, and even in their sleep, they dream of stardom at Bells, Margaret River or Teahupoo. Aiming to make it in the junior pro events and get noticed by the by surf companies, they understand that there’s only a short time to make it the World Qualifying Series before stepping up into the major league of the World Championship Tour. Their walls are covered by posters of their single name idols – Fanning and Slater / Layne and Chelsea – whom they regularly watch on DVD and whom they want to emulate so much they can taste it. Recognizing that half of success is a head-game, they’re willing to do what it takes, often leaving education and relationships, determinedly surviving on a pittance to follow their dream. Habitat – the best beaches.

Alternative Surfer
Not afraid of being different they’re over the ‘I have to be part of he surfing mainstream’ mentality, they are comfortable being the only knee-boarder / body boarder / waveskier / paddle surfer in the pack out the back. These surfers are often way ahead and aware of surf design innovations as they beyond the usual surf mob thinking. Often in career in creative fields such as photography / music / art / media, they’re happy to achieve their own dream while surfing to the beat of a different drum. While sometimes targeted by the angry surfer, the alternative is cool enough to defuse any potential surf rage and is uninterested in getting into a blue. They generally give off a positive vibe and are genuinely stoked to see other surfers catch a good wave. Habitat – they prefer the secret spots up and down the coast.

Silver Surfer
Semi or fully retired, they prove that snow on the roof doesn’t mean you can’t rip. Now work is a distant memory, they can finally concentrate on what’s important – the waves. Sporting a perpetual smile, chilled out and laid back, they know who they are, want to enjoy the moment and are happiest surfing with their friends. Found at most beaches and often riding a longer or retro board, while they can now afford the custom quiver of their dreams, somehow they seem to end up surfing with a couple of old favorites. As well as finally taking that luxury Indo surfari, they also attend a few longboarding festivals to catch up with old mates. Living by the beach, they are as renown for their surfing as their ability to pick and predict swell, you can find them at any beach hanging ten and encouraging the next generation.

Green Surfer
While just about every surfer is concerned about global warming, the green variety does more than simply adding another bumper sticker to their car, even supposing they have one. Green surfers may be identified by the board rack on their bicycle as they peddle to the beach. They may wear the same gear as the LL, but their boardshorts probably cost $4 at the local op shop rather than 20 times that amount from a leviathan surf store. Often spotted wearing an old Surfrider Foundation t-shirt, vintage straw hat and eagerly going through council hard rubbish collections in search of collectable boards thrown out by less perceptive surfers, they also pick litter up off the beach when walking out of the waves to the car park. Often the backbone of local conservation groups, they have an inclusive approach to other surfers, enjoy a good laugh in between sets and look for practical solutions rather than moaning about the problem. Habitat – most beaches, they are the ones picking up rubbish in the car park.