Springing into surfing

Not quite time to ditch the wetsuit, but spring means summer is on the way...

An azzure sky, a soft northerly and an upswing in water temperature means that surfers all along the Victorian coast are enjoying the spring waves. Not to mention calling in sick ('cough, cough, sorry boss I've got a bug'), as they indulge their surfing bug in the perfect A-frames melting in up and down the Great Ocean Road.
It’s been a long, long, icy cold winter in and out of the water and spring took a while to get going as even the more hardened zero water surfer will admit.

Now’s the time to remember to put on the sunblock along with your 3/2 and enjoy those uncrowded breaks before the summer hordes realise that now the footy has finished they can safely leave the house.

Late spring is also a good time to raise the bar on your surfing. Sometimes it's easy to settle into a comfort zone. Whether it's 3 ft beachies or always surfing your mal on 5 ft point breaks and nothing else, you can find yourself surfing the same beaches and the same waves all the time - and then you wonder why your surfing doesn't improve or maybe even begins to slip a bit.

Starting out
Once you discover your passion for surfing, it can be a weird mixture of fun and frustration, excitement and exasperation as you struggle to master your surfboard.
“When I started surfing, I attended lessons through a surf school each Saturday morning for about two months”, says Sydney surfer Belinda Glynn.
“Group lessons offered a safety buffer, we would all laugh and choke on water together and it made the surf seem less intimidating”, she recalls.
“Surfing with a grrlfriend helped me improve as she’s always encouraging and supportive”, says her friend Laura Soledad, who took up surfing in her 30’s.
“Having someone to encourage you really helps you persevere, especially through the times when you want to improve and you’d just get too frustrated on your own”.

Coach selection
Finding a coach with the right personality is as important as choosing your surfboard – get the wrong type and you’ll be floundering and miserable. Coaches are also good to return to on a regular basis to ensure you don’t lose your momentum.
“If you are really serious, think about getting a surf coach who can help you with the technical side of surfing”, says six times world champion Layne Beachley.
“A surf coach really improved my surfing in leaps and bounds”, agrees Laura. “He immediately identified bad habits and how to get rid of them and taught me good techniques which you don't get exposed to when you just jump on a board and go for it”, she says.

Look and learn
Northern Beaches surfer Sue Gill has been surfing for over 30 years and has caught waves in Mexico and Santa Cruz and closer to home, all along the Australian east coast from chilly Phillip Island to balmy Noosa.
“To improve my surfing and challenge my competence in the water I ask questions of my fellow surfers, particularly ones that seem skilled at a particular maneuver”, Sue says.
“I also watch videos of contemporary and traditional surfers of the 60’s and every time I venture into the water I aim to practice one aspect of my surfing technique”, she explains”.

Need to focus on your inner-surfer? Read The Surfer’s Mind by Richard Bennett.

Torquay surf news
For those who are heading down to the south-west coast, remember to check out the latest exhibition at Surfworld
Need to hire some gear? Or looking for some coaching to polish your cutback? Check out the friendly dudes at Torquay Surf Academy.

Surfers with soul

Thanks to generous people of the Surfcoast Longboard Club who presented the Torquay Fire Brigade with a cheque for $3,000 to go towards a new fire truck.

The SCL presented the cheque at their annual Winter Classic which was held over the weekend at Fairhaven, west of Bells Beach.

We really appreciate your wonderful efforts guys - you can have my waves anytime!

Above image shows Tim Day from TFB being presented with the cheque by Emma Webb, treasurer and John Lane, president of the SCL. Image by Alison Aprhys.

Rush Hour – Surviving a busy break

Navigating crowds can be a challenge. Image of surfers at Avalon by Alison Aprhys.

It's off-shore, 4 ft and glassy. You don your 4/3, booties and earplugs, grab your board, run down to the beach, looking forward to catching some empty winter waves...only to find that every other surfer on the coast has the same idea and the swell is swarming with bodies and boards!

You’d think that in winter, with the footy on the TV (even better if local heroes Geelong are playing, then most Cats fans will be at watching the game), that the chilly waves would be less crowded.

Surfing a crowded beach can be mental and physical health hazard due to too many surfers on too few waves.

You have a couple of choices – either going into a jam-packed break and being prepared to deal with it or not going in. One option is to look for a less crowded break. The waves may not be as good or as often, but you’re probably going to get more of them if you’re paddling against a swarm.

Reading the vibe
Those few moments you take to observe the waves and potential surf rage vibe can be critical to your surfing enjoyment. Before surfing anywhere, especially if it’s not your local, resist the temptation to rush out and really look and listen – sit in the car park or on the sand and observe the people as well as the swell.
Often you can tell if there’s a good or ugly feeling out there. It’s never worthwhile going out if you sense a bad vibe, no matter how good the waves are, because you can’t predict people’s behavior in such a situation.

“I always recommend that you take a good 10 -20 minutes to check out the waves and crowd before paddling out” says Nancy Emmerson. Nancy, a former champion surfer operates her own surf schools in Australia and Hawaii and she’s a firm believer in surfing safely.
“In Australia, there are so many great surf spots within a short drive, so if you are unsure about surfing one place, you can always drive for five minutes in another direction and find a less crowded option – it’s not cowardice, it’s common sense.” Nancy admits that she finds people who feel that they must surf a particular break - no mater how hectic - tiresome.

“It’s mostly guys who want to be able to boast that they’ve surfed Kirra or Snapper”, she sighs. “Women surfers may also want to surf those breaks but they are generally wise enough to do so at times when the crowds are more reasonable”.

Dealing with aggression
Verbal and physical abuse can be a real threat in a crowded break and while being a female does mean that generally you are more likely to be yelled at than struck, you can’t dismiss this potential threat with the belief that ‘I’m a girl so I’m safe’.
Take the time I was surfing my home break and an aggressive and arrogant tourist dropped in on me, causing us to collide with his board receiving a very minor ding. He shouted, screamed and swore abuse at me. It was futile to argue, so I simply paddled over to join some people I knew and avoided him the rest of the afternoon. Yes, he was scary, but he was behaving appallingly to everyone, so while I didn’t take it personally, I didn’t want to encounter him again. If there was no-one in the water that I knew or felt comfortable joining, I’d have got out and gone for a coffee. Surfing with friends is good call – you can look out for each other and most surf bullies will think twice before taking on a group.

Surf sista Laura Soledad says that prefers to surf new breaks with a friend. “I tend to surf with my girlfriends so if we do encounter an idiot, we have each others’ support,” she says.

On avoiding wave disputes, Laura advises, “we’d much rather paddle off and have a positive surfing experience than get into a shouting match over a wave”.

Surfing with your male friends is helpful if you need a confidence boost.
“My best friend’s husband surfs too”, says Laura. “He’s really experienced, regularly keeps an eye on us too, so we know that if it even looked like someone would try to ‘heavy’ us, he’d be in there in a flash”.

Going for it!
So how do you paddle with confidence when 20 others are aiming for the same wave?

Gaining confidence to surf in throngs is a catch-22 situation – you need to surf crowds regularly to feel comfortable, but it can be difficult getting the assurance up to paddle into a situation that freaks you out. Arranging to surf with a really experienced friend or coach is one solution – I’m always more confident handling crowds when I’m with my coach, because he has years of experience in dealing with all kinds of people and wave conditions and his confidence and positive ‘you can do it’ attitude rubs off on me.

Keeping your eyes and ears open is vital. Don’t get distracted by chatting. Sure, fitness and technique are really important; the fitter you are and the more you practice surfing in crowded conditions, the more confident you’ll be in your ability to get a wave.

“It’s vital are of what’s going on around you”, advises Gally, an elite coach who with business partner Critter runs Torquay Surf Academy at Torquay near Bells Beach. “It all comes down to your ability to stay out of everybody's way and being aware of danger, so watch for inexperienced surfers and give them a wide berth”, he warns.

“The hardest thing about surfing in crowds is that people get in the way when you are on the wave, so surf with people of around your ability”, advises Gally, “Don't surf with the hot surfers, instead, move to a beach with a lower ‘wave pig’ factor”.

Surfing in congested conditions usually leads to frustration.
Remember, you’re surfing to have fun, not to get even more frazzled. So if you have come in early or avoid surfing for a day, so be it. Go for a strenuous walk or chill out with some yoga. There’ll be more waves along tomorrow.

Rush Hour 911

Your call – it’s cool to decide to surf elsewhere
Observe before entering – don’t rush out, scrutinize the action
Know your ability – if you feel intimidated, find another break
Avoid surfing when stressed – don’t take a bad attitude out there
Be polite – if you drop in, apologize!
Ganging up – do surf with people you know
Look out – observe where surfers are at the break
Communicate – when paddling for a wave, inform others of your intended direction
Equipment Check- ensure legropes are secure to avoid losing your board and causing injury
Hard hat – Consider wearing a helmet
Surf with your level – it’s an opportunity to get more waves than battling for surf with those far better
Share the swell – if you are the best surfer out there, give waves to girls who aren’t catching any. You were a beginner once!

An edited version of this article appeared in Surf Life for Women

Feel the heat

Brrrrrrr!

If you’re surfing around Torquay at not wearing a 4/3 at the moment, then you don’t own one. It’s winter next week and despite the water temperature dropping faster than the Australian dollar, theres plenty of joy to be had surfing through later autumn and early winter on the Victorian Surf Coast.

Having a glassy dawn wave to yourself at Winki is one of the highlights of winter. Image by Alison Aprhys.

A big plus is that crowds are down – especially if you choose days when Geelong Football Club are playing at home and you’ll enjoy relatively empty waves.

However, to get the most out of the coldest season, there’s a few essential rites::

Thou shall drive to the beach in your wetsuit so there’s no excuse for not going out if the waves are good. You’re already dressed, you night as well go out and get a few.

Thou shall go surfing with a friend and encourage each other not to wuss out – it’s easy to think it’s too cold but if you know your mate is in the car park waiting, you’ll be motivated.

Thou shall enjoy the change in seasons – sure it’s colder out there now - but the sea smells more briny, the air is crisp, different sigh and birds are about and the sunrises with mist spectacular.

Thou shall have a thermos of hot coffee / tea / milo in the car for an après-surf warm up on hands and core. Honest, having a hot drink makes a huge difference to warming up.

Thou shall have a darn good hot breakfast after that surf and defrosting shower! Food tastes fabulous after an icy wave or 10. Hot coffee, jammy toast, pancakes, poached eggs and crispy bacon, porridge with berries and yogurt or a bubbling grilled ham and cheese spring to mind if not to stomach. But if you are eating out and about, think twice before scoffing a usual pie and sauce because the most goodness appears to be in the latter!

According to independent consumer advocate Choice there’s not much meat in those pies! And let's face it, so many more delicious breakafast options to enjoy.

Thou shall have two wetsuits – nothing is worse than pulling on dank and damp wetsuit. And it’s easier to pull your wetsuit off in the shower if you can wait that long to change.

Remember that no matter how ordinary your surf or the waves, it’s still the best way to start or finish your day.

Peace on the water

January 26 is Australia Day.

Think about how fortunate we are to live on island with so many wonderful surf breaks.

Australia Day is a good opportunity to take a look around and count our blessings.

A good day to chill out and catch a couple of waves.

A wonderful day to paddle out, smile at your fellow surfers and give away a couple of waves.

So no matter the type of board your fellow surfers are riding, smile, give ‘em a hoot as they soar past.

Because it’s true what they say – the worst day surfing is always better than the best day working.

And giving away a wave won’t kill you – and it might just make someone’s day.

ECU Surf Challange 2009

Those creative and talented surf-mad students at ECU are at it again...

If it's October it must be time for the Surf Challenge at Yallingups, so dig out your steamer!
All surfers visiting the Margaret River region are invited to particpate in the annual surfing competition established in 2003 by the crew behind the marvellous Surf Science & Technology degree at ECU.
This is one of the funenst comps you'll ever enter - loads of fun, great waves, good times and heaps of groovy prizes!

The event is always a chilled-out enjoyable competition and showcases local wave riding talents amidst wonderful waves at Yallingup Beach. High quality surfing performance at the Yalls amphitheatre provides a magnificent spectacle for families, tourists and spectators alike.

The 2009 Surf Challenge is scheduled for Saturday 17th October.
Three short board divisions are intended for the day; Open Men, Open Women and Junior Boys. We are anticipating last year’s champions Zac Ogram, Michaela Greene and Shaun Green will return to the water to defend their titles against a host of contestants.

The festive atmosphere from previous years will continue with live folk music delivered by Caris Doyle, photographic displays, fun beach activities and a scrumptious sausage sizzle.

Once again, the ECU Surf Challenge has attracted fantastic endorsement from a raft of local businesses. Retravision return this year as our naming rights sponsor and Creatures of Leisure, Al Bean (AB) Surfboards, Evolution Surf and Hillzeez Surf Shop as Gold Sponsors. We have also had generous support from Samudra Yoga, Post Sessions surf photography, the famous Yallingup Beach Holiday Park, Yahoo Surfboards, Busselton Shire, Occy’s Brewery and Surfing WA.
We extend a huge vote of thanks to our backers for their continued sponsorship - without their valued assistance the ECU Surf Challenge would not occur.

With incredible prizes up for grabs and the chance to test yourself in the heat of competition; “You’ve got to be in it to win it!”

Entry forms can be found at local surf shops and on the ECU website at
http://www.ecusurfchallenge.com/ OR http://www.southwest.ecu.edu.au/surf/

Want more info?

Alice Kilgour - Head of Marketing
Email: akilgour@student.ecu.edu.au

Thea McDonald-Lee - Event Director
Email: theam@studnet.ecu.edu.au
Telephone: 0401 464 085

Rob Holt - Surf Science Course Coordinator
Email: r.holt@ecu.edu.au
Telephone: 0400 568 638

My Brothers Keeper - review

My Brother Keeper – The Official Bra Boys Story by Sean Doherty

Unless you have been living under a rock you’ll be familiar with the Bra Boys.
Every surfer seems to have an opinion of them, be it good or bad.
Doherty’s recent book My Brothers Keeper takes the reader beyond the tabloid headlines, the sensational reportage and into the lives of the blokes who proudly bear the words ‘my brothers keeper’ inked upon their skin.

Primarily about the four Abberton brothers who were born to different fathers and a mother whose soul was twisted by the demons of heroin addiction; it’s a compelling and sometimes despairing, sometimes uplifting tale of their lives growing up in Maroubra and beyond.
Forget the murder cases, the charges, the clashes with police and gangs; while it’s all there, their story is far bigger and more complex.

Doherty has avoided the easy route of offering the usual sex, drugs and rock n roll so beloved of too many surf writers; instead he allows the brothers voices and their sometime different accounts and perspectives of these sometimes shocking, sometimes mundane and often difficult times.
It’s a raw and rough story and often you want to shake them by the scruff of the neck. But in the end, Doherty has written an extremely insightful account of their lives and actions and one that lets you glimpse beneath their public personas.
My Brothers Keeper represents a new level of Doherty’s writing and shows why he is one of the most interesting and intuitive surf writers around.
http://www.harpercollins.com.au/books/9780732285548/My_Brothers_Keeper_The_Official_Bra_Boys_Story/index.aspx