Showing posts with label alison aprhys. Show all posts
Showing posts with label alison aprhys. Show all posts

Monday, April 18, 2011

Girls in the curl!

It’s the 50th anniversary of the surfing events at Bells Beach and the female surfers are all keen to ring the bell!

Belles of Bells - Carissa Moore, Tuler Wright and Stephanie Gilmore with the coveted trophy.


You can follow all the women’s events sportstar.com.

Stay tuned, it’s going to be an exciting couple of weeks!

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Friends in need

Wayne ‘Rabbit’ Bartholomew once told me that “bakeries in surf towns never go broke”.

The intimation was that surfers love to fuel up on crabs such as pies, sausage rolls, buns, biscuits and rolls. Now a bakery in Torquay that is a hit with the local surfers has decided to help out our friends in Queensland who have been devastated by floods and now a cyclone. Faith Davis who run Point Bake (next door to Barrie Sutherland’s Watermarks Gallery ) has been selling cupcakes with $1.50 from each one going towards the Queensland Flood Appeal. Many a local has popped in for a post-surf pie only to see the sign and then changed their mind to scarf down a cup cake or two. Thanks everyone!

So far Faith and her team have rased over $600 – that’s a lot of cupcakes.

As surfers we should be supporting businesses like Point Bake who give back to the community. So please encourage your local barkery or café to do something similar – and feel welcome to send me a photo and I’ll post it up on surfsista!

Story and image by Alison Aprhys appeared in the Surf Coast Times 1st February 2011.

Monday, December 13, 2010

Surf & Yoga for Swahinis

Surfing and yoga go together like, well ham and eggs, pancakes and blueberries, tomatoes and basil. The more time I spend in cobra, downward facing dog or eagle, the better my surfing seems to be and the faster my recovery time. Loads of surfing galpals also swear that doing a few 'sun salutes' is a great way to limber up and cool down after an invigorating surf.
So if any of you surfsistas are planning on visiting Albany in WA in 2011 and want to catch a few waves, then I recommend signing up for one of the terrific all-female surf & yoga retreats.

Organised by keen surfer and yoga enthusist Narelle of Albany’s reknown Cruize Inn, the retreats are aimed at female surfers of all levels, ages and surfing ability. The Cruize Inn is a lovely, friendly and affordable accomodaiton for extended families, family groups, corporate travellers and same-interest groups - when I was there during my WA surfari, it was bliss!

The Swahini retreats include:
  • Traditional Vinyasa Yoga & Meditation with qualified Yoga instructor - 24 yrs experience
  • Surfing the South coast in pristine locations with experienced & qualified surfing instructors
  • Massage
  • Optional therapies
  • Relaxation
  • Delicious, wholesome meals & nutritious drinks
  • Asian Cooking Class – with a local chef
  • Relaxed & comfortable shared accommodation
  • Small groups of 6 to 8 participants.
Contact: Narelle – 0417 987 775 or Helen (Yogasun) – (08) 9841 3020 

Friday, December 3, 2010

Happy Days Diary 2011 for surfers

Keeping on top of life’s commitments and schedules can sometimes appear to be the antithesis of surfing. So when the Happy Days Diary 2011 arrived in the letterbox, I was stoked. It's a yearlong celebration of surfing and the environment - it's a million miles away from the usual boring diary which can make you feel like an office-drone.
This spiral-bound diary is in a seven days-to-two-pages format so you can see at a glance your week ahead. It features over 200 pages of delightful surf-related art and photographs and contains loads of interesting details – from feature stories on the marine environment through to surfing destinations. For those of us who like to doodle there is space for notes and drawings.
Another cool feature is that each month focuses on a different country, with photos and surfing information with the weekdays written in the local language. Sustainability is covered by the limited-edition run of 2000, it is printed locally in Australia on Ecostar 100% recycled FSC certified paper with soy based inks.
The Happy Days Diary 2011 also supports non-profit organizations on marine environmental issues that feature in the diary, including whaling, rainforests, climate change, plastic and over fishing information interspersed with the months. It is available in select book stores, art galleries, surf and eco stores, and online at http://www.happydaysdiary.com/

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Springing into surfing

Not quite time to ditch the wetsuit, but spring means summer is on the way...


An azzure sky, a soft northerly and an upswing in water temperature means that surfers all along the Victorian coast are enjoying the spring waves. Not to mention calling in sick ('cough, cough, sorry boss I've got a bug'), as they indulge their surfing bug in the perfect A-frames melting in up and down the Great Ocean Road.
It’s been a long, long, icy cold winter in and out of the water and spring took a while to get going as even the more hardened zero water surfer will admit.

Now’s the time to remember to put on the sunblock along with your 3/2 and enjoy those uncrowded breaks before the summer hordes realise that now the footy has finished they can safely leave the house.

Late spring is also a good time to raise the bar on your surfing. Sometimes it's easy to settle into a comfort zone. Whether it's 3 ft beachies or always surfing your mal on 5 ft point breaks and nothing else, you can find yourself surfing the same beaches and the same waves all the time - and then you wonder why your surfing doesn't improve or maybe even begins to slip a bit.

Starting out
Once you discover your passion for surfing, it can be a weird mixture of fun and frustration, excitement and exasperation as you struggle to master your surfboard.
“When I started surfing, I attended lessons through a surf school each Saturday morning for about two months”, says Sydney surfer Belinda Glynn.
“Group lessons offered a safety buffer, we would all laugh and choke on water together and it made the surf seem less intimidating”, she recalls.
“Surfing with a grrlfriend helped me improve as she’s always encouraging and supportive”, says her friend Laura Soledad, who took up surfing in her 30’s.
“Having someone to encourage you really helps you persevere, especially through the times when you want to improve and you’d just get too frustrated on your own”.

Coach selection
Finding a coach with the right personality is as important as choosing your surfboard – get the wrong type and you’ll be floundering and miserable. Coaches are also good to return to on a regular basis to ensure you don’t lose your momentum.
“If you are really serious, think about getting a surf coach who can help you with the technical side of surfing”, says six times world champion Layne Beachley.
“A surf coach really improved my surfing in leaps and bounds”, agrees Laura. “He immediately identified bad habits and how to get rid of them and taught me good techniques which you don't get exposed to when you just jump on a board and go for it”, she says.

Look and learn
Northern Beaches surfer Sue Gill has been surfing for over 30 years and has caught waves in Mexico and Santa Cruz and closer to home, all along the Australian east coast from chilly Phillip Island to balmy Noosa.
“To improve my surfing and challenge my competence in the water I ask questions of my fellow surfers, particularly ones that seem skilled at a particular maneuver”, Sue says.
“I also watch videos of contemporary and traditional surfers of the 60’s and every time I venture into the water I aim to practice one aspect of my surfing technique”, she explains”.

Need to focus on your inner-surfer? Read The Surfer’s Mind by Richard Bennett.

Torquay surf news
For those who are heading down to the south-west coast, remember to check out the latest exhibition at Surfworld
Need to hire some gear? Or looking for some coaching to polish your cutback? Check out the friendly dudes at Torquay Surf Academy.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Rush Hour – Surviving a busy break

Navigating crowds can be a challenge. Image of surfers at Avalon by Alison Aprhys.

It's off-shore, 4 ft and glassy. You don your 4/3, booties and earplugs, grab your board, run down to the beach, looking forward to catching some empty winter waves...only to find that every other surfer on the coast has the same idea and the swell is swarming with bodies and boards!

You’d think that in winter, with the footy on the TV (even better if local heroes Geelong are playing, then most Cats fans will be at watching the game), that the chilly waves would be less crowded.

Surfing a crowded beach can be mental and physical health hazard due to too many surfers on too few waves.

You have a couple of choices – either going into a jam-packed break and being prepared to deal with it or not going in. One option is to look for a less crowded break. The waves may not be as good or as often, but you’re probably going to get more of them if you’re paddling against a swarm.

Reading the vibe
Those few moments you take to observe the waves and potential surf rage vibe can be critical to your surfing enjoyment. Before surfing anywhere, especially if it’s not your local, resist the temptation to rush out and really look and listen – sit in the car park or on the sand and observe the people as well as the swell.
Often you can tell if there’s a good or ugly feeling out there. It’s never worthwhile going out if you sense a bad vibe, no matter how good the waves are, because you can’t predict people’s behavior in such a situation.

“I always recommend that you take a good 10 -20 minutes to check out the waves and crowd before paddling out” says Nancy Emmerson. Nancy, a former champion surfer operates her own surf schools in Australia and Hawaii and she’s a firm believer in surfing safely.
“In Australia, there are so many great surf spots within a short drive, so if you are unsure about surfing one place, you can always drive for five minutes in another direction and find a less crowded option – it’s not cowardice, it’s common sense.” Nancy admits that she finds people who feel that they must surf a particular break - no mater how hectic - tiresome.

“It’s mostly guys who want to be able to boast that they’ve surfed Kirra or Snapper”, she sighs. “Women surfers may also want to surf those breaks but they are generally wise enough to do so at times when the crowds are more reasonable”.

Dealing with aggression
Verbal and physical abuse can be a real threat in a crowded break and while being a female does mean that generally you are more likely to be yelled at than struck, you can’t dismiss this potential threat with the belief that ‘I’m a girl so I’m safe’.
Take the time I was surfing my home break and an aggressive and arrogant tourist dropped in on me, causing us to collide with his board receiving a very minor ding. He shouted, screamed and swore abuse at me. It was futile to argue, so I simply paddled over to join some people I knew and avoided him the rest of the afternoon. Yes, he was scary, but he was behaving appallingly to everyone, so while I didn’t take it personally, I didn’t want to encounter him again. If there was no-one in the water that I knew or felt comfortable joining, I’d have got out and gone for a coffee. Surfing with friends is good call – you can look out for each other and most surf bullies will think twice before taking on a group.

Surf sista Laura Soledad says that prefers to surf new breaks with a friend. “I tend to surf with my girlfriends so if we do encounter an idiot, we have each others’ support,” she says.

On avoiding wave disputes, Laura advises, “we’d much rather paddle off and have a positive surfing experience than get into a shouting match over a wave”.

Surfing with your male friends is helpful if you need a confidence boost.
“My best friend’s husband surfs too”, says Laura. “He’s really experienced, regularly keeps an eye on us too, so we know that if it even looked like someone would try to ‘heavy’ us, he’d be in there in a flash”.

Going for it!
So how do you paddle with confidence when 20 others are aiming for the same wave?

Gaining confidence to surf in throngs is a catch-22 situation – you need to surf crowds regularly to feel comfortable, but it can be difficult getting the assurance up to paddle into a situation that freaks you out. Arranging to surf with a really experienced friend or coach is one solution – I’m always more confident handling crowds when I’m with my coach, because he has years of experience in dealing with all kinds of people and wave conditions and his confidence and positive ‘you can do it’ attitude rubs off on me.

Keeping your eyes and ears open is vital. Don’t get distracted by chatting. Sure, fitness and technique are really important; the fitter you are and the more you practice surfing in crowded conditions, the more confident you’ll be in your ability to get a wave.

“It’s vital are of what’s going on around you”, advises Gally, an elite coach who with business partner Critter runs Torquay Surf Academy at Torquay near Bells Beach. “It all comes down to your ability to stay out of everybody's way and being aware of danger, so watch for inexperienced surfers and give them a wide berth”, he warns.

“The hardest thing about surfing in crowds is that people get in the way when you are on the wave, so surf with people of around your ability”, advises Gally, “Don't surf with the hot surfers, instead, move to a beach with a lower ‘wave pig’ factor”.

Surfing in congested conditions usually leads to frustration.
Remember, you’re surfing to have fun, not to get even more frazzled. So if you have come in early or avoid surfing for a day, so be it. Go for a strenuous walk or chill out with some yoga. There’ll be more waves along tomorrow.

Rush Hour 911

Your call – it’s cool to decide to surf elsewhere
Observe before entering – don’t rush out, scrutinize the action
Know your ability – if you feel intimidated, find another break
Avoid surfing when stressed – don’t take a bad attitude out there
Be polite – if you drop in, apologize!
Ganging up – do surf with people you know
Look out – observe where surfers are at the break
Communicate – when paddling for a wave, inform others of your intended direction
Equipment Check- ensure legropes are secure to avoid losing your board and causing injury
Hard hat – Consider wearing a helmet
Surf with your level – it’s an opportunity to get more waves than battling for surf with those far better
Share the swell – if you are the best surfer out there, give waves to girls who aren’t catching any. You were a beginner once!

An edited version of this article appeared in Surf Life for Women

Sunday, January 24, 2010

Peace on the water

January 26 is Australia Day.


Think about how fortunate we are to live on island with so many wonderful surf breaks.

Australia Day is a good opportunity to take a look around and count our blessings.

A good day to chill out and catch a couple of waves.

A wonderful day to paddle out, smile at your fellow surfers and give away a couple of waves.

So no matter the type of board your fellow surfers are riding, smile, give ‘em a hoot as they soar past.

Because it’s true what they say – the worst day surfing is always better than the best day working.

And giving away a wave won’t kill you – and it might just make someone’s day.

Friday, September 18, 2009

ECU Surf Challange 2009

Those creative and talented surf-mad students at ECU are at it again...

If it's October it must be time for the Surf Challenge at Yallingups, so dig out your steamer!
All surfers visiting the Margaret River region are invited to particpate in the annual surfing competition established in 2003 by the crew behind the marvellous Surf Science & Technology degree at ECU.
This is one of the funenst comps you'll ever enter - loads of fun, great waves, good times and heaps of groovy prizes!

The event is always a chilled-out enjoyable competition and showcases local wave riding talents amidst wonderful waves at Yallingup Beach. High quality surfing performance at the Yalls amphitheatre provides a magnificent spectacle for families, tourists and spectators alike.

The 2009 Surf Challenge is scheduled for Saturday 17th October.
Three short board divisions are intended for the day; Open Men, Open Women and Junior Boys. We are anticipating last year’s champions Zac Ogram, Michaela Greene and Shaun Green will return to the water to defend their titles against a host of contestants.

The festive atmosphere from previous years will continue with live folk music delivered by Caris Doyle, photographic displays, fun beach activities and a scrumptious sausage sizzle.

Once again, the ECU Surf Challenge has attracted fantastic endorsement from a raft of local businesses. Retravision return this year as our naming rights sponsor and Creatures of Leisure, Al Bean (AB) Surfboards, Evolution Surf and Hillzeez Surf Shop as Gold Sponsors. We have also had generous support from Samudra Yoga, Post Sessions surf photography, the famous Yallingup Beach Holiday Park, Yahoo Surfboards, Busselton Shire, Occy’s Brewery and Surfing WA.
We extend a huge vote of thanks to our backers for their continued sponsorship - without their valued assistance the ECU Surf Challenge would not occur.

With incredible prizes up for grabs and the chance to test yourself in the heat of competition; “You’ve got to be in it to win it!”

Entry forms can be found at local surf shops and on the ECU website at
http://www.ecusurfchallenge.com/ OR http://www.southwest.ecu.edu.au/surf/

Want more info?

Alice Kilgour - Head of Marketing
Email: akilgour@student.ecu.edu.au

Thea McDonald-Lee - Event Director
Email: theam@studnet.ecu.edu.au
Telephone: 0401 464 085

Rob Holt - Surf Science Course Coordinator
Email: r.holt@ecu.edu.au
Telephone: 0400 568 638

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

My Brothers Keeper - review

My Brother Keeper – The Official Bra Boys Story by Sean Doherty

Unless you have been living under a rock you’ll be familiar with the Bra Boys.
Every surfer seems to have an opinion of them, be it good or bad.
Doherty’s recent book My Brothers Keeper takes the reader beyond the tabloid headlines, the sensational reportage and into the lives of the blokes who proudly bear the words ‘my brothers keeper’ inked upon their skin.

Primarily about the four Abberton brothers who were born to different fathers and a mother whose soul was twisted by the demons of heroin addiction; it’s a compelling and sometimes despairing, sometimes uplifting tale of their lives growing up in Maroubra and beyond.
Forget the murder cases, the charges, the clashes with police and gangs; while it’s all there, their story is far bigger and more complex.

Doherty has avoided the easy route of offering the usual sex, drugs and rock n roll so beloved of too many surf writers; instead he allows the brothers voices and their sometime different accounts and perspectives of these sometimes shocking, sometimes mundane and often difficult times.
It’s a raw and rough story and often you want to shake them by the scruff of the neck. But in the end, Doherty has written an extremely insightful account of their lives and actions and one that lets you glimpse beneath their public personas.
My Brothers Keeper represents a new level of Doherty’s writing and shows why he is one of the most interesting and intuitive surf writers around.
http://www.harpercollins.com.au/books/9780732285548/My_Brothers_Keeper_The_Official_Bra_Boys_Story/index.aspx

Monday, September 7, 2009

Surfing’s Timeless Photographer – Barrie Sutherland

Stunning. Evocative. A timeless tranquility.
Wherever surfers gather, accolades for Barrie Sutherland’s images roll in like a king tide.
If eyes are the window to the soul, then images hold the key to the photographer’s heart.

Looking at a Barrie Sutherland photograph is like stepping back in time. Back to a time when the pace a little slower, the boards a little longer and the waves a heck of lot emptier.

The first thing that strikes you in his images are how devoid of surfers are the waves. Victorian surf breaks that now attract hundred of waveriders, are shown with just a few surfers enjoying the glorious glassy peaks or in the case of his now classic 1965 images of Bells Beach, battling leviathan waves.

Initially enthralled when the 1956 Melbourne Olympics exhibition surf carnival brought Californians Greg Noll, Mike Bright, Tom Zahn and Bobby Burnside to town, Sutherland was hooked. “They paddled out and rode malibus for the first time at Torquay Point”, he says with as much excitement as any grommet. His lifelong addiction to salt water always battled photography for first place in his heart – after girlfriend Madeleine, of course. A stunner then and a silver fox now, Madeleine has lost none of her charm and her warm personality is as strong as ever. She featured in many of Sutherland’s early works and was a talented shooter herself, her image of her husband paddling out on his longboard at Coolangatta in 1966 is considered a classic.

Back then Sutherland’s photographs of Bells Beach first came into prominence when fledgling surfing company Rip Curl decided to use one of his photos early on to promote their business.
From the moment Sutherland picked up a Kodak Box Brownie, it was evident that he had that rare ability to capture what he felt and saw. And it wasn’t long before others realised his talent.
“Rip Curl chose a classic full colour, early morning Bells Beach line-up shot of Barrie’s for our very first magazine advertisement and we captioned it ‘The Dawning of Rip Curl’", recalls company co-founder Doug Warbrick. “The heritage of surfing in Victoria and especially Bells Beach owes so much to the great black and white images shot by Barrie in the 60's and early 70s”, he says. But unlike John Witzig who lays claim to northern Australia, especially Queensland and Jack Eden to New South Wales, many of Sutherland’s Victorian photographs have never been exhibited before. Now after more than 30 years in Western Australia, where Sutherland worked in IT for Alcoa, they have returned to set up the Watermarks Photo Gallery in Torquay.

Sutherland’s connections with Torquay began in the mid-1940s when his grandparents holidayed then moved there. His cousins and later Sutherland’s family soon followed. “Riding surfboards then was out of the question, they were the 16-foot hollow plywood boards that were far too big for kids to ride, let alone ever own”, he says. “The older guys like Rex ‘China’ Gilbert, Vic Tantau, “Mumbles” Walker, Owen Yateman and a young Peter Troy were always on the scene”. Back then, he says, Torquay Point was the place to surf and was always busy with surf skis, boats and the 16-footers plying their way across the waves. When he was 10, Sutherland and his cousin decided to swim out to the main break on the sandbar. Ian made it, but Sutherland almost drowned but for a woman who pulled him out by the hair. “From that experience I learnt a life long lesson; always respect the ocean, never take it for granted and don’t take on any wave if fear strikes you”, says Sutherland. It was a lesson that stood him well some years later when facing huge, uncompromising swell at a Bells Beach competition. “We had watched four surfers paddle out into the huge waves, then Marcus Shaw looked at me and I looked at him and we decided to wait a while before paddling out”, he says. The judges called off the event due to dangerous conditions after several massive waves closed out Bells and caught the other surfers in the Bowl”.

“Bells 1965 blew them away. It was probably six to seven to eight meters and when you scaled it, the face was 25-30 ft (10m),” he says. “No-one ever knew the surf could get that big in Australia, let alone at a contest. A magazine called it the Waimea Bay of Australia,” says Sutherland.

Between 1959 to 1962, Sutherland studied engineering at the Gordon Institute of Technology. One hot day in February 1959, at Graham ‘Macca’ McKenzie’s instigation, Sutherland and some friends took a drive to Bells via the Jarosite track (now a sealed road) and that visit set in motion a deep desire for him to return and surf the powerful waves. After he graduated in civil engineering in 1962, Sutherland purchased a new Barrie Bennett nine-foot Malibu from Marcus Shaw. On the advice of mentor Joe Sweeney (the craftsman who still makes the Rip Curl Pro trophies) he went to Bells and was captivated by the waves. Sutherland purchased a 2nd hand 35mm Practika camera and a rudimentary teleconverter to enable him to start capturing action shots. As the surfing became more intense, Sutherland’s passion to record it increased. Late 1963 he was dissatisfied with the limits of the camera technology, so early 1964, Sutherland invested in a new Minolta SR1 35mm camera and a 400mm lens.

Keen to improve, Sutherland joined the Geelong Camera Club where he learnt photographic composition and dark room technique. Mentored by local photographer, Ian Hawthorne, Sutherland says he was a strict, but fair critic. Setting his ego aside, Sutherland listened carefully and took notes of Hawthorne’s comments and soon became very successful, winning many club competitions. Looking to capture what surfers took for granted as they paddled out, he investigated water housings for his Minolta, but found they were too cumbersome and expensive. Upon Nikon releasing its 35mm underwater camera, Sutherland purchased one of the first in Australia. Sutherland says his proudest photography achievement came when he combined his two loves to capture greatness on a roaring and ruthless Bells Beach in 1965. On Easter Monday 1966, tying his Nikonos camera to his waist, Sutherland made history when he paddled out on a malibu surfboard as close as he could to the impact zone and took the first photographs of Bells from the water.

Now the first water shots taken at Bells and along the Surf Coast are amongst his most famous – and best-selling - images. Sutherland’s photographs appeared in Surfing World and Surfabout magazines and were used by local surf industry pioneers, including Don Loveless at Torquay Surfer Supplies, Fred Pyke Surfboards and Rip Curl.

Despite success, surf photography back then couldn’t support a growing family. Ever a realist, Sutherland kept his passion as a hobby and joined Alcoa in their fledgling IT department at Point Henry in Geelong and a few years later, was transferred to Western Australia for a long and very successful career with Alcoa before he retired in 1999. An unsuccessful foray into a boutique surf shop / gallery, which was way ahead of its time, only made the couple long for the Victorian surf coast. However, it was evident that something was in the air if not the waves; three years earlier, he was contacted by his life-long friend John Panozzo and asked to hold an exhibition at the newly opened SurfWorld Surfing Museum. The duo had surfed along the coast for years, doings dawn patrols when some of the fabulous seascapes were taken. Sutherland took the photos, Panozzo took notes, and both caught more than their fair share of waves! Together with Jack Finlay, they spent a hectic six months and the exhibition opened to great acclaim in December, running until May 1997.
Ten years later, Sutherland and Madeleine returned to where it all began.

Sutherland has also exhibited at the Baltimore Museum of Art (US), National Maritime Museum (Sydney), Surfworld Surfing Museum (Torquay), at WA’s Dunsborough Festival, Cottesloe Whalebone Classic, Margaret River Library, Margaret River Masters, Piney Lakes Environmental Education Centre and Metro Church. His work has featured in many surf stores and is held in private collections throughout Australia.

“Barrie has an important place in Australian / Victorian surfing history as he was one of the few people of the time to actively catch it on film”, says former Surfing Australia CEO Alan Atkins, who won the Victorian state titles in 1967 when Sutherland snapped him standing alongside Gail Couper and Rod Brook. “Technically Barrie has an excellent eye for a surf shot and fortunately, he has maintained his library over the years; at the time, most surfers were looking for their next wave, recording their antics and surfing exploits were far from their mind (but) Barrie enjoyed his surfing immensely but also found time to record it”, says Atkins.

Down the coast at Port Fairy, Keith Curtain, editor of Australian Surf Business magazine agrees. “What can you say about Barrie Sutherland that hasn’t already been said before?” he asks via email. “Barrie occupies a rare place in Australian surfing history, because he had the presence of mind to capture and catalogue beautiful images of an embryonic surf culture emerging in South West Victoria”, he says. “It was a time before mass surf media, before the internet, each image is a time capsule, a window to our past, each lovingly taken for prosperity and not for profit.”
Over in Western Australia, Rob Holt who manages Edith Cowan University’s Bachelor of Surf Science course includes Sutherland’s images in the curriculum’s surf history unit. “Barrie is undoubtedly a significant figure in Australian surfing folklore”, booms Holt down the phone. “His images of the south coast of Vicco from the 1960s give us a real understanding of our surfing roots and our surfing culture in Australia”, he says. “The photograph that really sticks in my mind is the shot of Rob Conneeley and ‘Nipper’ on that smoking right; that's an archetypal Bells moment”, he says with the wistful tone of a man who may have taken on Bears, Yallingup and Smiths, but yearns to walk down the steep stairs and paddle out to Rincon. “Isn't that one of the fabulous things about photos though? They share such wonderful moments with future generations”, says Holt.

A few weeks earlier, visiting longboarder, talented artist and member of surf band Mal and the Longboarders, Soren Carlbergg popped into Watermarks for “a quick look around”, only to emerge two hours later. “He’s one of the special photographers”, muses Carlbergg. “Barrie is more about the atmospheric, I find them beautiful in composition, simplicity in form, very interesting in the interaction of light, he gives a timeless tranquility in his photos”.
Grant Forbes, former head of design for Rip Curl now owns Tigerfish Gallery down the road reckons Sutherland is unique. “He was actively documenting Victorian surfing when the fledgling surf media was focusing on Sydney and Queensland”, says Forbes. “While the Witzigs and Falzons, masters that they are, created heroes and a subculture through their work and the broad circulation of the surf magazines, Barrie was quietly creating beautiful images, more for the creative satisfaction than the glory of mass exposure”, he says. “So while his work is distinctly historic and ‘retro’, it's as fresh as the day it was taken...many of the images that he has stored as negatives have never been printed until now”. Forbes believes that technically too, his work stands up well in an age when we're assaulted by thousands of throwaway digital images on a daily basis, Sutherland's carefully planned pieces, textured with delicate film grain, beautifully lit and artfully printed, scream ‘quality’. “Victorian surfing is the richer for Barrie Sutherland's work; it shows us that our waves, and our surfers, are worth celebrating”, says Forbes.

Next door at the Bell Street Gallery, photographer Matthew Stevenson agrees with his neighbour. “Barrie was the only Victorian surf photographer at the time, ahead of such renowned photographers and film makers such as Alby Falzon, Jack Eden, Ron Perrot, Bob Weeks and Mal Sutherland who all hailed from NSW”, he says. “His imagery was used in the first Rip Curl advertising in 1969 and we have all grown up knowing his photos which in time where ingrained into our surfing psyche”, he says.

At Manly, Chris Moss of Heritage Surf reckons that a Sutherland image always wears its heart on its sleeve. “Barrie Sutherland gave his heart and soul to take photographs that tell us about Victorian surfing, about where surfing evolved from”, he says.
Earlier, Sutherland turned up late for a photoshoot with master glasser / shaper Peter Ashley (who retired last month. Sutherland explained that 1963 Bells winner Doug Andrew, “just popped in as I was leaving”. Ashley forgives him and the two have a laugh as Sutherland views his image of Peter surfing a wintry Bells in the de rigueur footy jumper and shorts; the faded photo has been on display at Ashley’s shop for over 40 years. Ashley recalls Sutherland taking shots of him at Winkipop (the break left of Bells bowl) in 1964. “I can remember clearly back in the 60's when new surfing vibes were new…clean consistent waves and unspoiled beaches ..very, very few surfers and Barrie always there doing his things he loved; surfing and as well as his profession, was taking photos of seascapes and true-blooded good and gutsy surfers without leg ropes and modern wetsuits ”, says Ashley. “Barrie is so friendly, without commercial ego, he is a pioneer” he adds. “Really I’m very lucky to have (the) one photo of myself surfing at Winkipop last 1964”, he says. Son Stephen, a former state surfer now does most of the shaping and he’s stoked to meet someone whose images he has admired for years.

Today Sutherland who still drives everywhere with a board in the back of his Triton ute in case of waves, sits behind the counter and in between chatting with customers, talks about returning home. “We decided it was time to come back”, says Sutherland, his hair still damp from his morning surf. But he says it was hard to leave WA, he loves being back. Sutherland looks around the gallery and smiles as various images catch his eye and memories come flooding back. An apt description too, for many of his old mates from the 60s and 70s have been rocketing through the door as soon as they heard he was back in town. Torquay may be the fastest growing town in Victoria, but set back off Bell Street, Watermarks is now one of three places that locals in the know pop in to have a yarn with other like-minded souls.

That night at the Surfworld Surfing museum, staff are flat-chat putting the final changes into the Liquid Mountains exhibition. Along with the usual suspects of trophies, posters, big wave guns and tow-in surfboards, the exhibition contains several Sutherland images. The one that draws the biggest crowd shows an intrepid Roger Falahey paddling over a monster wave at Bells Beach Bells during the infamous 1965 event. “He captured a unique time those 1965 shots of bells beach; 25ft the biggest day anyone’s seen there,” says the then director Jeff Arkinstall. “We are exceptionally proud to have Barrie Sutherland images in our collection”, he adds. An unassuming Sutherland beams with delight as he catches up with all the old surfing tribe from back in the day.
“He’s a gentlemen”, confirms Peter Dunn, inaugural president of WA’s Cottesloe Longboard Club and organizer of the annual Whalebone Classic. “He has the feeling of stoke and he’s enlightened a lot of us as to what it what was like in the early surfing days”, he adds.

Barrie images can be seen at http://www.watermarksphotogallery.com.au/
A version of this article first appeared in Slide magazine in 2008.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Keeping the momentum over winter

This post is for those of us needing a bit of inspiration! In Torquay the waves are darned cold at the moment and when the winds blow, you can tell that snow is falling somewhere! Winter can mean you settle into a comfort zone. Whether it's 3 ft a-frames or always surfing your mal on 5 ft point breaks and nothing else, you can find yourself surfing the same beaches and the same waves all the time - and then you wonder why your surfing doesn't improve or maybe even begins to slip a bit.

Once you discover your passion for surfing, it can be a weird mixture of fun and frustration, excitement and exasperation as you struggle to master your surfboard. One friend decided to abandon learnign from mates and take classes. She said that it was heaps more fun than falling off on her own. “Group lessons offered a safety buffer, we would all laugh and choke on water together and it made the surf seem less intimidating”, she recalls. Another decided to make a committment to meet a friend every morning for a surf check as an antidote to staying in bed.
“Having someone to encourage you really helps you persevere, especially through the times when you want to improve and you’d just get too frustrated on your own”.

Another solution is finding a coach to help you improve and have fun out there. Selecting one with the right personality is as important as choosing your surfboard – get the wrong type and you’ll be floundering and miserable. Find one whom you gell with and lessons can become a highlight of your week. Coaches are also good to return to on a regular basis to ensure you don’t lose your momentum.

Alsion's Winter Rules
Surf at least 3-4 times a week - arthritus allowing!
Yoga helps flexibility
Weight training and push-ups assist strength
Watch surfing videos & DVDs for motivation / inspiration
Read 'The Surfer’s Mind' by Richard Bennett
Remember, it's all about having fun!