MOST girls want diamonds or, failing that, flowers, lingerie or chocolates from their sweethearts.
Me? I want a point break. Preferably with glassy 1.2m waves and an offshore breeze.
But I'll take a 1m chop and murky sleet if that's all there is.
Welcome to my blue heaven.
Surfing is my solace, my addiction, my passion.
Wednesday, September 26, 2012
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Indian summer
Nothing like paddling out early at your favourite break where you know the waves will crank in like clockwork.
Surfing Wattegos wearing a bikini, boardies and sunblock and is my Sunday break of choice but living a couple of thousand km south means it’s the full monty; still unable to acclimatize after four years from my seven year Sydney surf sojourn, my new-ish 3/2 steamer remains the summer rubber suit of choice at Torquay Point.
This morning when I pulled in it was pretty small but still a dozen cars covered in surf stickers bearing the names of various wave-riding clubs and local niche shapers bore testimony to the salt water addition.
“It’s tiny but we’re desperate so we’re paddling out,” said a local with a grin.
Mals and longboards were go apart from an enthusiastic fish and a stand-up adding interest to the mix and causing several boardriders to wonder aloud about the current state of their ambulance cover.
But at the end of the day it was party waves a-plenty.
Storms are predicted for this evening so hopefully better surf is on the way…
Image shows surfychic preparng to paddle out at Wattegoes.
Surfing Wattegos wearing a bikini, boardies and sunblock and is my Sunday break of choice but living a couple of thousand km south means it’s the full monty; still unable to acclimatize after four years from my seven year Sydney surf sojourn, my new-ish 3/2 steamer remains the summer rubber suit of choice at Torquay Point.
This morning when I pulled in it was pretty small but still a dozen cars covered in surf stickers bearing the names of various wave-riding clubs and local niche shapers bore testimony to the salt water addition.
“It’s tiny but we’re desperate so we’re paddling out,” said a local with a grin.
Mals and longboards were go apart from an enthusiastic fish and a stand-up adding interest to the mix and causing several boardriders to wonder aloud about the current state of their ambulance cover.
But at the end of the day it was party waves a-plenty.
Storms are predicted for this evening so hopefully better surf is on the way…
Image shows surfychic preparng to paddle out at Wattegoes.
Monday, April 18, 2011
Girls in the curl!
It’s the 50th anniversary of the surfing events at Bells Beach and the female surfers are all keen to ring the bell!
Belles of Bells - Carissa Moore, Tuler Wright and Stephanie Gilmore with the coveted trophy.
Stay tuned, it’s going to be an exciting couple of weeks!
Saturday, April 2, 2011
Surfers also must be sport ambassadors
Cori Schmacher writes that surfers also must be sport ambassadors. She has decided that she will not defend her longboard world title in China this year this year because of its human rights record. According to Cori, a wave of change is needed.
Read Cori's article about her decision in The Guardian...
Read Cori's article about her decision in The Guardian...
Monday, February 28, 2011
Thankful surfing
Yesterday evening at Torquay Point a couple of dozen surfers on all manner of craft were out enjoying the mild water and small, fun waves.
It was the last day of summer, the waves were breaking and everyone seemed in a buoyant mood, laughing as they rode ‘em in. Surfboards, bodyboards, waveskis, paddleboards, even the surf boast from the life saving club was out there.
As far as summer goes, it’s been a shocker – loads of rain, on-shore winds and junky conditions. But compared to what our mates in Queensland, Western Australia and Christchurch are going through, it’s a minor hiccup.
There’s so much horror and sadness in the news at the moment. Next time you go out and catch a wave, be thankful. Just being able to get out in the ocean and surf is an incredible privilege. We are so damn lucky to have the ocean on our doorstep, be well enough to paddle out and able to surf.
It was the last day of summer, the waves were breaking and everyone seemed in a buoyant mood, laughing as they rode ‘em in. Surfboards, bodyboards, waveskis, paddleboards, even the surf boast from the life saving club was out there.
As far as summer goes, it’s been a shocker – loads of rain, on-shore winds and junky conditions. But compared to what our mates in Queensland, Western Australia and Christchurch are going through, it’s a minor hiccup.
There’s so much horror and sadness in the news at the moment. Next time you go out and catch a wave, be thankful. Just being able to get out in the ocean and surf is an incredible privilege. We are so damn lucky to have the ocean on our doorstep, be well enough to paddle out and able to surf.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Wild Women Water Day
Wild Women Water Day is an all female surf competition taking place on the 26th Feb 2011 with a 7am start at Point Impossible. This competition celebrates womens surfing in all its forms, having open shortboard, longboard and SUP. Along with these open divisions there are also U/16 & U/18 shortboard, two division that will be hotly contested by a large number of the local girls. And there will be an Over 35's longboard division.
This comp will appeal to those wanting to try there hand at an event along with the seasoned competitor. Its a fun non threathening atmosphere with heaps of goodies in the competitor showbags.
Its happening on Saturday 26th Feb 2011 at Point Impossible, start time 7am.
Divisions
Shortboard - Open, U/18 (can't turn 18 in 2011), U/16 (can't turn 16 in 2011)
Longboard - Open, O/35's (can't turn 35 in 2011)
SUP - Open
Competitor showbag with each person
Online entries are now open for the 2011 Wild Women Water Day on Saturday 26th Feb at Point Impossible ALL - Female Surf Competition. 7am start..
Sunday, February 6, 2011
Vale Leeroy Granis
Revered surfing photographer LeRoy Grannis passed away at 93 last Thursday.
A key proponent in the rise of surf photography in the 1960s, he later went on to co-found International Surfing Magazine, an early incantation of Surfing magazine.
A master of the lens, Grannis sold his first photograph to Reef Magazine for $7. He went on to becomea true master of the lens..
Read more about this incredibly talented man at Surfers Village.
A key proponent in the rise of surf photography in the 1960s, he later went on to co-found International Surfing Magazine, an early incantation of Surfing magazine.
A master of the lens, Grannis sold his first photograph to Reef Magazine for $7. He went on to becomea true master of the lens..
Read more about this incredibly talented man at Surfers Village.
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